McCall’s 7313 and Thoughts About Sewing

First a bit of personal news… I finished all of my academic requirements to apply for the CPA exam!!!! This came as a surprise to me because I thought I had 2 more semesters left. I was so surprised that I emailed the evaluation agency to ask, “Are you sure?!” They confirmed that it was true.

Hallelujah!!!

So, after sitting around like a bump-on-a-log, decompressing, for a week after my last classes, I unpacked my sewing supplies and got back into the swing of things. McCall’s 7313 came just at the right time. I needed a quick, gratifying make to reignite my enthusiasm.

Following my recent trend, I made this dress out of a Girl Charlee cotton/spandex blend and – holy cow – it feels amazing! I have another yard of this yummy goodness and I might make pajamas out of it. It is that soft!

I wish I had a sewing disaster to share with you because they always make great stories, but I don’t! This came off without a hitch.

I did alter the pattern a bit. It called for an elastic waistband. After consulting my community of makers, we all agreed it wasn’t necessary. I decided to take in the top and skirt about an inch on both sides and eliminate the elastic. I think it gives the dress a cleaner look (and it’s certainly more comfortable!).

A few people have asked about how I managed such a great finish on the neckline. I honestly think that dumb luck has a lot to do with it, but here’s my process: I serge the raw edge, turn under 1/2″ with Wonder Clips, and finish with a twin needle. Using this process, I’ve never had any issues with puckering.

I’m assuming you sew – or have an interesting sewing – if you’re here. I often think about WHY I sew as I’m working through these projects. Here are three hard truths:

Clothing is never perfect. Even ready-to-wear (RTW), designer garments have flaws – seams that are a little wonky… hems that might wave a bit… slight differences in fit. It’s just the human influence of the process. If you’ve never sewn, I challenge you to pull out a few of your favorite items and closely examine them – you’ll see what I mean.
Custom sewing is a slow process. If you want it to be right, it takes time. Many talented makers create a test garment, called a muslin, before even cutting into their “real” fabric. Yes – they make the pattern twice. There is nothing worse than working hard on a garment, only to find that it doesn’t fit when it’s complete. I once considered myself a lazy maker, but I’ve come to realize that sewing is only worth doing if the end result is something you can be proud of (and wear!).
Sewing is expensive! No one sews to “save” money. Even time carries a value. With the exception of a few recent projects, I’d say the average make takes me 4-5 hours from start to finish – longer if there is handwork required. I’m slow and careful. If I assign a minimal value on my time – say $10 an hour – and I have $20-$40 (or more!) invested in fabric, I have a finished garment that costs $60-$100. Depending on the project, it could be more or less.

So, why-the-heck do I do it?! It it truly for the love of the craft.

Here’s what else I know to be true – custom garments fit in ways that RTW can’t, giving them an expensive look and feel. People take notice of what you’re wearing when it’s well-made. Even strangers approach me on days that I’m wearing “me-made.” They want to know where they can purchase or how they can steal it from me. There are a lot of reasons to feel good about wearing clothing you’ve made, including avoiding some of the fashion industry’s ethical issues.

I’d love to hear from you – why do you sew? If you don’t sew and are interested in starting, what do you find appealing about the process?